The scramble for Timbuktu

by CHARLOTTE WIEDEMANN

Scenes from the race for influence over Africa’s ancient written culture.

Timbuktu as a site of African renaissance, where the continent can reflect on its culture and its strengths – this was Thabo Mbeki’s idea, as president of South Africa. On a state visit to Timbuktu he visited the Ahmed Baba Instititute, where 30,000 manuscripts are stored under state supervision. The institute bears the name of Timbuktu’s most famous philosopher, but what a meagre place, how ill-suited to the restoration of so precious a heritage! Mbeki pledged his support; it was crucial to “raise Africa’s profile, not only in the eyes of the world, but in the eyes of Africans themselves.” Back in South Africa, he mobilised private capital and within a fortnight, the first experts from the Cape had landed in Mali. The Malians were bowled over by this display of efficiency.

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