By Farooq Ahmed
From the peak of Mount Arafat, the midday haze softened the Hijaz Mountains and revealed the severe beauty of the land surrounding Islam’s holiest city. For the briefest moment, the thousands of pilgrims around me – who were praying, reading from the Koran and shielding themselves from the unyielding sun – receded. I could convince myself that I stood alone atop this squat, inelegant mountain where the prophet of Islam delivered his final sermon 1,400 years ago. Sweat stung my eyes. Its odour permeated the two white cloths wrapped around me. I blinked, and the moment passed.
Such private flashes were rare on a pilgrimage shared with more than three million people from around the world. Also, in this land where I most certainly was his keeper, I had lost my younger brother. Our father, waiting for us back at the tent, would not be pleased.
. . .
Muslims are required to travel to Mecca in the kingdom of Saudi Arabia to perform hajj at least once, if they reasonably can. The pilgrimage, which begins next month, is the single largest gathering on the planet.
On the spectrum of piety, I fall decidedly left of centre. And although I would never win a “World’s Best Muslim” award – for what he did as a law student on behalf of Guantánamo inmates, my brother is a far better candidate – I joined him, our more devout parents and a beloved uncle to undertake what I had been assured would be a life-changing trip.
I grew up not far from the geographic centre of the continental US, and performing the pilgrimage seemed untenable then. Living in New York as an adult, it seemed unwarranted, perhaps unnecessary. Still, the descriptions I read of hajj from sources as varied as Ibn Batuta, the Arabian explorer who journeyed from western Africa to China in the 14th century, and Malcolm X, primed me for the experience. When the opportunity came, I took it.
Our hajj group consisted primarily of middle-aged, upper-middle-class South Asian Americans like ourselves: that is to say, Indian and Pakistani doctors and engineers. Most had spent hefty sums of money securing “super deluxe” reservations guaranteeing well-appointed hotels and tents, comfortable travel and sanitised meals, thus ensuring minimal interaction with the supplicating masses – a Disneyland version of a pilgrimage. It sounded like the kind of spiritual journey that I could handle. Then my brother Abel (not his real name) decided to run off on our second day in the Hijaz mountains.
FT
(Submitted by reader)